Raw. Red Earth

Little solid facts are known about
Ussangoda, a mysterious heath
shrouded in myth and legend

nothing prepared s for the
Ussangoda national park.
We bad scrambled up
narrow paths of loose soil, clutching
precariously at roots, with no idea
of where we were going. So when
the vast red heath sprang upon us it
was a shock. It was a huge expanse
of earth, red-ochre to be exact,
spreading as far as the eve could see
(and many. many times bevond, as
we were to learn). A flimsy carpet of
straggling grass grew in very
sporadic patches.
Our rendezvous with this,
perhaps the least known of our
national parks, was the kind that
nurtures the soul, like Wordsworth 's
daffodils: only, Ussangoda, being
more primordial. provided us much
rawer excitement and inspiration
than tame Lake District.
Why is Ussangoda a heath.
where nothing except very weedy.
mean grass can grow? Several
explanations are put forward: some
rational and others pulled out of the
realm of fantastic Hindu myths.
The most logical is that. the sea air
being very strong, few plants can
Survive on the beath. This may be
true. Though the plain itself is bald,
the slopes, which are not so
blatantly whipped by the sea winds,
are full of growth: Pandanus with
ribbon like leaves, huge cacti with
monstrous yellow thorns, and other
coastal flora. But most people prefer
a more poetic (in fact epic)
explanation. To them, Ussangoda
was part of Ravana the demon king's
city, in fact where the Dandu
monara, the peacock chariot he flew.
was landed. When las related in the
epic Ramnayan) Hanuman the
monkey god set fire to Ravana's citv,
Ussangoda was the part most sorely
afflicted: it would never again be
fertile after that fire.
When we walked into this
wind-swept red land, we disturbed
few living things. Only the Red
Wattled Lapwing seemed to haunt
these wastes with his "Did-you-do
ity We had no reason to lear him
that day because we had notbing on
our consciences. Still soolding, the
lapwings flew away. I suppose they
were rosentful of our invading their
peaceful realm.
The people who live around here
call Ussangoda the 'pittaniya',
which means ground. Indeed, if I
were to add another myth to the
already rampant collection of
Ussangoda myths, I would have said
this would have been an ancient
plavground for giants.
From the cliffs of this heath you
could enjoy a commanding view of
the Indian Ocean. It was a bit sulky
that day, but for all that very
beautiful. Wave chased wwave. One
huge swelling wave would hoist
itself up mid-ocean and roll
majestically towards the beach.
Progressing with slow pattering

movements, it would finally lose
heart and flounder on the beach.
or on the crags that have heaved
themsel ves out of the sea like
petrified behemoths.
Everything in Ussangoda
seemed extraordinary to me.
The weedy grass itself was dotted
with tiny flowers coloured a dainty
purple-pink. Even the insects
crawling on the ground I seemed
hitherto never have seen. Maybe I
was getting carried away. But
certainly the place was alien,
removed from normal experience.
On thatI was reminded that a
meteoroid is said to have once
blasted the land here: one more
attempt to explain the peculiar
geography.

The day we visited Ussangoda
was misty, The sky was a bit heavy
but on he other hand, there was iO
sun to prickle us, which would hav
been an inevitable discomlort on a
sunny day, The sea waS a grey reen.
It looked like a rearing. gloomy
beast roady to swallow the earth.
For 20 acros this enigmatic red
land stretches. Fantastic though the
legends woven to it may sound,
there is no denying that Ussangoda
has medicinal plants found nowhere
else locally, and that the colour and
sterility of its soil is unique. If you
are heading to the deep south, this is
a place to explore. I don't mean just
nature. You stand a good chance of
discovering vourself in its solitarv
wide spaces.